“Heart & Surfine”2000 Oil on canvas 16”x20” – by Eric Carter Jason Abbott

Description

It s a beautiful day, 3-4 ft, light wind, and I m stoked. After parking, I watch where people are taking off and where they re getting in the water. There are probably 30 people at the peak but I m unfazed. I paddle out and sit close to the rocks, near to the peak but not near enough to get in the way of some very serious looking surfers out there. And can you blame them? North Shore is serious business. As all surfing should be.

After a few minutes and after letting several waves go by, watching what everyone is doing, I see one coming straight for me and I don t see anyone else paddling for it. A beautiful little 3 footer and I happen to be in the perfect spot. I spin myself round and start paddling, hard. I catch it, make the drop and… In front of me was the most beautiful wall of water I have ever seen, still to this day. It was sapphire blue and seemed like it was stretching out to the god damn horizon. This painting was done in honor of that.